Celebrities, Fashion and Beauty

A jolt of fashion in Milan from Prada

A jolt of fashion in Milan from Prada

A jolt of fashion in Milan from Prada
June 18
22:37 2017

How short is short? That was the question at the Prada spring/summer 18 show, which gave a jolt of fashion to a sparse Milan men’s schedule. Miuccia Prada sent out drastically short shorts with a variety of looks: a matching zip-up blouson with the sleeves pushed up; with short-sleeve shirts; worn under calf-length herringbone coats. I didn’t have my tape measure on me, so I took the caveman approach: the shorts were about two inches longer than my handspan.

This was one of those seemingly ramped-up collections that had actually been made from pretty straightforward pieces. Zip-up blousons were no-brainers. Tweed Chesterfield coats were a canny move for a collection that will enter stores in January. Crisp striped cotton shirts were layered into the look. Untuck that navy cardigan from nylon trousers, and it’s just a navy cardigan. 

Backstage, the words Mrs Prada used were “human, simple, real”. She talked about existing between virtual reality and the real world. Maybe more important was her body language. As she talked, she held her hands as lightly clenched fists to her body, palms upturned and fingers raised. Her hands moved forward and back. It looked liked the sort of Italian gesture for something that feels genuine and heartfelt. 

Swirling around it all were pieces to make a fashion customer palpitate. Prada had worked with two graphic artists to create comic strips that were printed on shirts and blousons. The comic strips had been plastered over the entire show venue. It was like walking into the set of an A-Ha video (for those too young or old to know what I mean, type into YouTube “Take On Me”). 

Can I talk about jumpsuits? The show featured jumpsuits. They were cut with a low breast pocket, and had some gathering at the base of the spine. The jumpsuits were zippered, with the zip going low into the crotch. The look was strong. I am so obsessed with jumpsuits, I can tell you the last time Prada showed jumpsuits — Spring 2008. Do you worry for me? 

It was a great show. Wouldn’t it be amazing if Prada now used this collection to introduce a more intuitive way of engaging with its customers? The stores still feel so old-fashioned. If it follows the brand’s previous path, the entire spring/summer collection will be delivered to stores in January. What if the coats turned up in the first months of 2018, with the cardigans. Then the jumpsuits arrive in spring, with the shirting and blousons. As the temperature rises, then the shorts appear on the rail. Doesn’t that make sense? 

© Catwalking

There is such passion generated by Prada’s shows, which then seems to dissipate. Somehow, other brands keep the energy going around a new collection going until they come to actually sell the stuff. Maybe Prada needs to look at the methods of Supreme and Palace, brands that stoke such fever in their client base. The excellence of Prada’s show deserves a better translation into real life.

Photographs: Catwalking

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